6 Non-Touristy Balkans Destinations That Should Top Your 2017 Travel Lists
OHRID, MACEDONIA
Locals stroll along a cobblestoned walkway, canoes drift in the lake’s oscillating waters, and a choir practices on the Church of St. Sophia steps as dusk begins to set: Welcome to Ohrid, Macedonia, an utterly perfect town full of Old World charm, set on the banks of brilliant Lake Ohrid. This UNESCO World Heritage Site sits at the intersection of three national parks, attracting hikers, bikers, and climbers to town, as well as those in search of a holiday, and it’s also the perfect place to enjoy Macedonia’s flourishing wine harvest. Stay in one of Ohrid’s many lakefront properties like Hotel Tino, or opt inland at Villa St. Sophia or Vila Mal Sveti Kliment. Wander Ohrid’s old town: Pass homes decorated with bougainvillea, flower pots, and ivy until you reach Kaneo Beach, home to family-run Restaurant Kaj Kanevche. End the night at Jazz Inn, a dive-bar-meets-live-music venue where locals convene. Visit Ohrid’s most photographed landmark, Church of St. John at Kaneo, and view the city from atop Samuel’s Fortress. For scenic views, take a drive through National Park Galičica to neighboring Lake Prespa, and enjoy an evening boat cruise to Restaurant Ostrovo set near the Black Drim River and the Monastery of Saint Naum.
PRIZREN, KOSOVO
In Kosovo, Prizren stands as the country’s beacon of creativity, set at the base of the Sharr Mountains along the river Bistrica and host to rich Byzantine and Ottoman architecture. Visit during August when the city hosts DokuFest, the largest film festival in all of Kosovo, featuring live music sets, photo exhibitions, and screenings of more than 200 films from around the world. Stay at Hotel Kacinari or Hotel Centrum Prizren, and to get the most of both city and country life, tour the area with Butterfly Outdoor Adventure and Airtour: Begin with an interactive workshop at a local filigree factory, dine on kebabs near Prizren’s Stone Bridge at Te Syla, and venture uphill to the Prizren Fortress, which offers the perfect view of bustling Prizren from above. Head into nature on a hike to Struzha, where you can stay at a traditional guesthouse and enjoy a campfire and local meal before completing a cross-country hike from Kosovo to Macedonia, summiting Scarpa Peak and passing Kara Nikolla Lake along the way.
BELGRADE, SERBIA
As one of the most culturally vibrant cities in all of Europe, Belgrade is a capital where past and present merge into a beautifully bold, chaotically contemplative sprawl. Here, along the Danube and Sava Rivers, you can find more than two hundred floating bars, clubs, and restaurants, known locally as splavovi. Along the Sava, dine at Beton Hala, a former warehouse, home to minimalist Comunale Cafee e Cucina, Cantina de Frida, and Ambar, where chef Bojan Bocvarov serves a Balkan spread of grilled meat, local wine, and rakia, a liquor made from fermented fruit—a true staple throughout the Balkans. During a visit, opt for a stay at Square Nine Hotel Belgrade to explore the city’s many neighborhoods, including the old world Dorćol and the trendy Savamala, home to Belgrade’s newest art galleries and cultural centers. Visit one of the city’s permanent green markets to shop for fresh, local delicacies, and drop by Mikser House and KC Grad, two outposts turning the Savamala neighborhood into the city’s burgeoning cultural district.
TRANSYLVANIA, ROMANIA
Famous for its medieval towns and the illustrious tale of Dracula, the Transylvania region of Romania is more than its legend and lore. Explore Transylvania’s cultural heritage while biking its most beautiful natural areas with Ciclismo Classico. Stay at the restored, Renaissance-styled Castle Hotel Daniel, visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Biertan, and savor Romania’s bounty during a cheese tasting at the Bio Mosna organic farm. Explore old towers and lively town squares and walk the Bridge of Lies while in Sibiu, one of Romania’s most beautiful cities and one of seven medieval citadels built by the Transylvanian Saxons. Sibiu is also home to Astra National Museum Complex, one of the largest open-air museums in Central and Eastern Europe. Continue your exploration of Transylvania in Brasov to view Saxon bastions and the Gothic-style Black Church, ending with a 15-mile climb on the Transfăgărășan alpine road to Bâlea Lake.
HIMARË, ALBANIA
On the Albanian Riviera, the sleepy town of Himarë awaits: Situated on the Ionian Sea and an accessible base point to sparsely visited alcoves like Gjipea Beach and Grama Bay, this town offers dramatic scenery you won’t tire of. The Ceraunian Mountains serve as the backdrop to crystal-clear beaches, and local outfitters like Zbulo deliver travelers to the nearby Llogara National Park, a stomping ground for those seeking to hike and cycle in the wild and spot indigenous species like native wolves, wildcats, and eagles. During a visit, meander up and down the Southern Albanian Coast, opting for a stay at Drymades Inn in Dhermi or Jaroal Hotel in Saranda. Roam the streets of Himarë to find a café that calls to you, and don’t miss a chance to dine at Veranda in neighboring Qeparo, where you can enjoy a homemade meal alfresco, underneath a blanket of shade trees and ivy.
HERZEGOVINA REGION, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
The Herzegovina region—located in the southern 20 percent of Bosnia and Herzegovina—is a gourmand and oenophile haven with myriad organic, homegrown food purveyors and wine producers all pioneering the Slow Food movement in the area. During a visit, book a holiday with Black Mountain, where you can stay at a rural, family-run estate and farm like Marica Gaj. Here, you can cook traditional meals while drinking the property’s very own wine. Stop by the stunning waterfalls of Kravice on the Trebižat River before arriving to Mostar: Walk amongst millhouse restaurants to the Stari Most, arguably the most famous bridges in all of the Balkans, which crosses Neretva River, connecting both sides of town. Sip a classic Turkish coffee before heading to Blagaj, one of the most beautiful village monasteries in Herzegovina and a source of the river Buna. Venturing further south, visit Stanica Ravno, a boutique hotel and winery converted from an old railway station, continuing to Vukoje Winery, a winery with sweeping views of the historic town of Trebinje. End your journey at Stara Hercegovina Restaurant, where you can try your hand at making prijesnac, a Serbian cheese soufflé made of eggs and cheese
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